I have the misfortune of being stuck doing DoorDash. It means I’m constantly plugging in and unplugging my phone from my car, at least once at the beginning and and again at the end of each and every delivery. Even with USB-C (it’s an iPhone 15 Pro Max), that makes me nervous. It’s also inefficient, having to fumble with the cord and the plug and the phone each and every time. And of course it’s a problem when it’s pouring down rain and the USB outlet gets wet.
So I’ve been trying bluetooth adapters for my 2021 Toyota RAV4 XLE Premium Hybrid. I’ve gone through three of them, now. They each worked great for the first day or so, then died. A message appears on the screen that the device could not be started in “advanced mode” and “normal mode” means the device doesn’t work.
The dealer informs me that the head units which support CarPlay over bluetooth are only available in model years 2023 and newer and cannot be retrofitted to a 2021.
I’m not even seeing the problem acknowledge in a web search. But for me, it’s consistent.
Does anyone know a solution?
The one I have been using successfully for the last 2+ years is made by “Carlinkit”
Every now and then, it will take a long time or outright fail to pair, requiring that I power cycle it. Happens maybe every 2-3 weeks, I average 2-4 pairings per day.
Otherwise, the experience is mostly seamless.
If you’re willing to shop on Amazon (I use Amazon only if I have to) they have a wireless CarPlay adapter that work pretty flawlessly I got mine for $100. All the steering wheel control works in my car (2017 Audi A3). There is an audio delay while watching videos but I believe that’s with all wireless CarPlay applications. I’ll link to the exact one I got. However they have one that says “upgrade” for cheaper but I do not have that one so I can’t say if it’s any better.
(TLDR) The adapter linked works just like plugging in regular CarPlay.
(Edit) a few added details
I’m not proud of it by any stretch but I do shop Amazon. There’s a lot to say about that but the bottom line for me is that I simply don’t have time to do anything else.
I’ve tried units from Amazon, Best Buy, and now, a fourth, CPLAY2Air.
I have an older version of this one too, the 3.0. Had it for a couple years now and it’s only happened a couple times that it wouldn’t connect until power cycled or took a long time to connect. Other than that it’s been reliable.
It may not be possible with a car that new depending on if the stereo does other things than just audio, but you may want to consider an aftermarket Pioneer, Kenwood, etc. Our car is so old that it’s stereo did nothing but audio so replacing it was easy, but yours might be more difficult. You could always check with a car stereo shop and see if it is possible with your car.
This isn’t about playing music. This is mainly about CarPlay for navigation, dealing with text messages, etc. I am extremely reluctant to replace the head unit: First, it would be expensive–a problem with what these gig companies pay. Second, I would lose some of the interface to the car itself.
Yea new cars (since early 2000’s) integrate the car control system into the head unit. I hate that crap
Do you have an aux input? I had good results with aux input Bluetooth in the past.
This isn’t about playing music. This is mainly about CarPlay for navigation, dealing with text messages, etc. I am extremely reluctant to replace the head unit: First, it would be expensive–a problem with what these gig companies pay. Second, I would lose some of the interface to the car itself.
Sorry I misread. I’ve been using an Ottocast one for over two years. I had to do the advanced config portion, you can find out how to do in the manual, to get it to work perfectly. Haven’t had an issue since.
Ottocast is one of the ones that died. It’s actually the first one I bought because it is highly rated.
I’ve used the same Bluetooth adapter for 10 years+
Must be something odd going on in your vehicle for them to die.
Perhaps the voltage regulator in your alternator is throwing a big voltage spike on the 12V supply, killing your adapters. There are large capacitors made for car audio that will stop spikes. Try one of those.
EDIT: Wait I’m sorry I see I misunderstood what you are asking about. I assumed you didn’t have a CarPlay screen. Disregard.
Original post:
So I haven’t tried these yet, but I’ve been watching a lot of videos about them. I’m not sure this would work for you, but I’m eying one of these for my 82 truck that still has its factory tape deck:
To me, for 100 bucks this beats the heck out of replacing an otherwise decent head unit or just using Bluetooth. It can connect to a line in, then your phone connects to the device with wireless CarPlay.
You may need to confirm that your lighter loses power when the ignition is turned off, otherwise you may have to wire in to keyed power somehow, or remember to unplug it when you exit the car, but that’s really the case with any of these devices I imagine.
Aside from line out, it has a built in fm transmitter or will connect to a cars built in Bluetooth if you have that.
Again, I haven’t gotten one of these yet, but based on reviews I’ve seen, this seems to be the best one to get so far.
It’s been a few weeks now and I think I understand the problem better. It’s not solved.
First, it appears to really be that they mean it when they say to disconnect all connections when connecting the phone to the adapter. In my case, this is impractical: I have a smart watch, a smart ring, and smart glasses, and I have them for reasons. And I am frequently stopping and restarting the engine, which of course restarts the adapter (and I wondered if the power cycling was inducing premature failure).
What I’m seeing now is that the problem is occasional and unpredictable. This misled me as to the source of the problem. I thought it was the adapter. But it turns out that if I just wait five minutes, the longest five minutes ever, after getting the message, the adapter will try again to connect to the phone and probably succeed.
It happens I wound up renting a 2022 Jeep Compass for a couple of weeks. The head unit in this car, though clearly not top of the line, was capable of CarPlay over bluetooth. This seemed more robust, more reliable, but not entirely so. I don’t have any idea how to account for this difference. Glitches still happened.
What I notice is that whether it’s the head unit or an adapter, wifi is unavailable while connected. I infer that this connection uses both bluetooth and wifi and that part of what the initialization process involves is handshaking to establish both connections. I suspect that it’s the wifi that’s problematic, but I often start my car at home, where there are multiple wifi signals, including more than one that my phone knows about, without incident. So it’s not just that my phone is already connected to wifi. There’s more to it but I don’t know what.
In the long term, I’ll probably give in and upgrade the head unit. The display on the Jeep Compass was much improved over the one in my (one year older) RAV4. I noticed it was much easier to navigate with this display and that’s important. But the mounting bracket that should (and probably does) work with my car has not been confirmed to fit. So it seems I have to wait.
